Elizabethan England (History of Costume and Fashion volume 3), medieval- literatura, źródła

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A History of
Fashion and
Costume
Elizabethan
England
Kathy Elgin
Elizabethan England
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-
Publication Data
Copyright © 2005 Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd
Produced for Facts On File by
Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd
11a Woodlands
Hove BN3 6TJ
Elgin, Kathy, 1948–
A history of fashion and costume.
Elizabethan England/Kathy Elgin.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and
index.
ISBN 0-8160-5946-2
1. Clothing and dress—England—
History—16th century. 2. Great
Britain—History—Elizabeth,
1558–1603.
GT734.E54 2005
391/.00942/09031—dc 22
2004060882
Project Manager: Roberta Bailey
Editor: Alex Woolf
Text Designer: Simon Borrough
Artwork: Dave Burroughs, Peter Dennis,
Tony Morris
Picture Research: Glass Onion Pictures
Consultant:Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. , Associate Professor,
University of Alaska, Fairbanks, and creator of the
website,The Costumer’s Manifesto
The publishers would like to thank the
following for permission to use their
pictures:
Printed and bound in Hong Kong
Art Archive: 6, 7 (top), 8, 18, 22, 25,
30, 31 (top), 36, 39 (top), 41, 48, 53,
55, 57
Bridgeman Art Library: 7 (bottom), 9,
11, 12, 16 (left), 19, 20, 21, 23, 26 (top),
27, 32, 34, 35, 39 (bottom), 40, 43
(bottom), 44, 54, 58
Mary Evans Picture Library: 10, 17, 59
Topham: 14, 16 (right), 28 (bottom),
29, 31 (bottom), 37, 38, 43 (top), 46, 51
Victoria & Albert Museum: 26
(bottom), 28 (top)
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, or by any information storage or retrieval
systems, without permission in writing from the
publisher. For information contact:
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Contents
Introduction
5
Chapter 1: Elizabethan Fashion
6
Chapter 2: Details and Accessories
18
Chapter 3: Fashion and Society
30
Chapter 4: Dressing Up
38
Chapter 5: Casual Clothing
46
Chapter 6: Work Clothes and Uniforms
50
Chapter 7: The Jacobeans
58
Timeline
60
Glossary
61
Further Information
62
Index
64
 Introduction
The reign of Elizabeth I was one of the most dazzling periods
of English history. It was the age of Shakespeare, of Walter
Raleigh, and Francis Drake.While at home great advances were
being made in science, religion, medicine, poetry, and drama,
across the seas explorers were mapping a whole new world.
Under Elizabeth, England enjoyed a long period of peace and
prosperity. People had money to spend on luxuries, and more
of them had time on their hands for leisure pursuits. It was the
beginning of consumer culture, and clothing was the most
obvious way of displaying the newfound wealth. Lavishness
and ostentatious display were the watchwords, not only for the
aristocracy at court but also for the rising middle classes, many
of whom had made their recent fortunes trading the very
textiles that were at the heart of the new fashion industry. In
this mood of national confidence, merchants ventured farther
abroad, trading English wool for silks, jewels, and precious
stones in Venice,Turkey, Russia, and China.
Elizabethan costume became more lavish—more consciously
elaborate—than in any period before or since. It was also
almost certainly more uncomfortable, especially for women,
who found themselves laced into impossibly tight bodices and
imprisoned by huge ruffs around their necks. But men and
women alike put up with it all for the sake of appearance.
Walter Raleigh, though a shrewd and fearless explorer, was also
a great dandy, only content when in the forefront of fashion.
Fortunately for us, the Elizabethan period was also the golden
age of English portrait painting. Everyone who could afford it,
from the queen down, dressed in their best clothes and had
themselves painted for posterity, and it is thanks to these
wonderful paintings that we know so much about the fashions
of the day.We have clues, too, in the many church brasses and
memorials erected to wealthy local benefactors in parishes
throughout the country.
There were few, however, who cultivated their own image with
more care and guile than Queen Elizabeth herself, and it was
she who had the greatest and most lasting influence on fashion.
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